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ALTERNATOR
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| The following is a general guide as to how to install your new alternator.
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| 1. |
Firstly the car should be cooled to prevent burning yourself on hot parts. Next disconnect the battery to prevent accidentally touching the positive wire onto an earth.
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| 2. |
Once battery is disconnected you can remove either the plug or feed wire on the alternator and the main positive lead usually at the rear of the alternator. |
| 3. |
Next the belt needs to be removed. Loosen of the pivot bolt at the bottom and undo the locking nut at the top. This will then allow the alternator to pivot and the belt should now be able to be removed. If you are removing the belt completely take note of how it runs over all the pulleys. |
| 4. |
Once the belt is off you then can remove the pivot bolt and locking bolts completely and allow the aternator to be removed. |
| 5. |
Check the new alternator matches the faulty old alternator. Swap over any extra brackets or parts from the old to the new. |
| 6. |
For installation just reverse the order process above, refit the alternator, refit and tension the belt, reconnect the wiring and start your car. |
| 7. |
Some alternators are more complex to fit. If you are not comfortable to follow the above instructions please use a mechanic or auto electrician to fit the part. |
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COMPRESSOR
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| The following is a general guide on how to install your new air conditioning compressor. |
| 1. |
Firstly any work that requires either degassing or regassing an auto a/c system has to be conducted by an authorised operator. Plesae do not attempt to degas or regas a car a/c system yourself. |
| 2. |
If the car a/c system is empty of gas then this is how you remove and refit the compressor. |
| 3. |
Disconnect the high pressure and low pressure hoses at the compressor. Move the hoses out of the way so you can access the compressor bolts. |
| 4. |
Loosen off the compressor belt tensioner so that the belt can be removed. Take care to note how the belt runs so it can be refitted the same way. |
| 5. |
Undo the mount bolts that connect the compressor to the engine (or the mount system). Remove the compressor from the engine bay. |
| 6. |
Place the new and old compressors side by side and check that you have the correct part. Swap over any brackets or wiring from the old to the new. |
| 7. |
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. You must know whether the compressor has enough oil. Almost all new compressors come complete with the correct charge of oil but make sure you check the instructions. If you are still not sure tip the compressor on its side and see whether any oil starts to come out. If nothing comes out then you need to add the correct charge of oil. |
| 8. |
Installation process is just the reverse of the instructions above. Fit the compressor, fit and tighten the belt, reconnect the hoses with NEW orings. Once this is done the car is ready to regas. |
| 9. |
Regassing should only be done by an authorised and licenced operator. They will know the correct procedure and the correct quantity of gas to use. |
| 10. |
We recommend both the filter dryer be changed and that UV dye is used when regassing. Depending on the reason for the compressor failure you may need to change the TX valve as well. Any licenced a/c service centre can advise you further. |
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CONDENSER
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| The condenser is the high pressure a/c part in front of the radiator. This is a general guide for removal and installation. |
| 1. |
Firstly the part cannot be removed until all of the gas has be degassed from the a/c system. |
| 2. |
You next need to access whether the radiator or the bumper bar needs to be removed. Some cars required the complete radiator to be removed (see radiator installation guide). Others need only the bumper removed or the radiator top mounts removed. |
| 3. |
Once the bumper or the radiator is removed the inlet hose and outlet pipes can be disconnected. |
| 4. |
Then the condenser mount bolts can be undone and the condenser is removed. |
| 5. |
Inspect the condenser and make sure it matches the new condenser you are about to instal. |
| 6. |
Reverse the process above for installation of the new condenser. Fit condenser, reconnect hoses and pipes with new orings, refit bumper or radiator and the car is ready for a regas. |
| 7. |
The regas needs to be done only by an authorised licenced auto a/c technician. |
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EVAPORATOR
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| The evaporator is the low pressure part of the auto a/c sytem that is usually inside the car behind the dash. It integrates with the heater and the fan to give you cooling inside your car. The following is a general guide to removal and installation. |
| 1. |
Firstly let it be explained that every car type requires a different process to get the evaporator out. If you do not know what you are doing your will need a comprehensive workshop manual or a mechanic who has had experience. Some cars take us 1 hour to remove and refit, others take us 8 hours. |
| 2. |
The cars a/c system must be completely degassed before you start the job. Also it is good practice to disconnect the battery terminals as the dashboard area has a lot of wiring behind it. |
| 3. |
Most evaporators are located near or next to the heater and so the complete heater/evaporator box needs to be removed. If this is the case both the evaporator connections and the heater pipes must be disconnected under the bonnet. Any heater box mount bolts under the bonnet must also be undone. |
| 4. |
The next step is to follow the process inside the car to remove the evaporator. This section is specific to the actual car you have and varies from model to model. |
| 5. |
Once the evaporator is out, check the new one matches the old one and reinstall. |
| 6. |
Lastly the car must be regassed by an authorised technician. |
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FAN CLUTCH
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HEATER CORE
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| The following is a general guide for removing of the heater core element from a vehcile. As they are located inside the vehicle under the dashboard in most cases, you will need either experience or a full workshop manual and patience. |
| 1. |
Disconnect the heater hoses near the firewall by undoing the hose clamps. |
| 2. |
The next step is inside the vehicle and requires the removal of all the dashboard sections need to get to the heater core +/or the heater box unit. (This is the section where a full workshop manual will take you through the process step by step.) |
| 3. |
Often the heater core is located next to the evaporator. If the evaporator unit needs to be removed as well the a/c system will need to be degassed by a licenced and authorised auto a/c specialist. |
| 4. |
Once the heater is out of the vehicle, match it to the new unit and reverse the process for reinstalling the new heater. |
| 5. |
Always use new hose clamps when reattaching the hoses and make sure the a/c is regassed by a licenced operator. |
| 6. |
Once the car is all back together, make sure you completely flush the whole cooling system, removing all the old coolant before refilling the car with quality coolant. |
| 7. |
Run the car with the heater on and the fan going making sure it heats up correctly and that all the air is removed from the cooling system. Once the car is cold, recheck the water level and top up if necessary. |
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HEATER TAP
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| The following is a simple guide to replacing a heater tap. |
| 1. |
Most heater taps are located under the bonnet and require just a screw driver to remove. |
| 2. |
Once identified and located, remove all the hose clamps off the old heater tap. |
| 3. |
Remove the tap and check it against the new replacement heater tap. |
| 4. |
Reinstall the new heater tap and replace all hose clamps as these often leak is reused. |
| 5. |
Top up with coolant, run the vehicle, inspect the hose clamps for leaking and check the rest of the cooling system. |
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INTERCOOLER
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OVERFLOW BOTTLE
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| Overflow bottles are located under the bonnet and require just small spanners and screwdrivers to replace. |
| 1. |
Make sure the cooling sytem is not presurrized and not hot before starting work. |
| 2. |
Disconnect the attached hoses from the overflow bottle. |
| 3. |
Remove the old bottle, check it matches the new overflow bottle and reinstal the new one. |
| 4. |
Reattach the hoses with new hose clamps. Top up the coolant. |
| 5. |
Run the car up to operating temperature and check all the cooling system is functioning correctly. |
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RADIATOR
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| Below is the process that we have used for over 20 years to install radiators while making sure that the best overall result for the cooling system is obtained. |
| 1. |
Before removing the radiator inspect the whole cooling system including the hoses, the water pump area and the heater tap. Often these parts may be leaking or faulty as well as the radiator. If the cooling system has failed the whole system has been under stress. |
| 2. |
The whole cooling system (with the heater on) should be flushed, before the radiator is removed. Drain the cooling system completely. Refill with fresh water only, run engine with heater on for 10 minutes and then flush completely again with fresh water. Most cars you can connect a standard garden hose into a heater pipe to aid flushing. |
| 3. |
The radiator should then be removed. We also recommend removing the thermostat and inspecting. We replace any thermostat that has any score marks on the centre section. This indicates that at certain times the thermostat has been sticking. Many radiators have failed due to faulty thermostats. A sticking thermostat will cause your new radiator to fail. |
| 4. |
Check old radiator and new radiator match. Swap over any clips or nuts from old to new and reinstall new radiator. Always replace hose clamps as they very often do not hold the correct tension once used. |
| 5. |
Fill the radiator with ethylene glycol based coolant at minimum 50% ratio and top up with water. Run the motor and depending on the vehicle you may need to bleed the system of air through the cooling system bleed screw. Allow the vehicle to warm up until you have confirmed that the thermostat has opened and the thermo fans have cycled on and off. |
| 6. |
Re-inspect the complete cooling system for leaks around hoses etc. |
| 7. |
Top up radiator with extra coolant if required (be very careful if you are taking the cap off a hot cooling system that is under pressure). Inspect the radiator cap for swelling or cracks in the rubber. If faulty then replace. |
| 8. |
If you are not comfortable doing the above work then please get a mechanic to install your radiator. |
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STARTER MOTOR
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| Starter Motors should only be installed by someone that is experienced enough to follow all the necessary safety precautions as the often require a person to work from underneath the vehicle. |
| 1. |
First step is to disconnect the battery to prevent accidnetly touching a postive lead onto an earth point. |
| 2. |
Next disconnect both the plug or feed wire and the main positive off the starter motor. |
| 3. |
Undo the mounts bolts that connect the starter motor to the engine/gearbox. Remove the starter motor. |
| 4. |
Check that the old starter motor matches the new unit. Swap over any extra wiring or brackets and reinstall the new starter motor. |
| 5. |
Reconnect the plugs and main power lead. Reconnect the battery. Test the starter. |
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THERMO FAN
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| Thermo fans are mounted to the radiator or the condenser. |
| 1. |
Disconnect the plugs that connect the fan to the wiring loom. |
| 2. |
Unbolt the fans from the radiator/condenser. |
| 3. |
Check the fans match in mount points and wiring plugs. |
| 4. |
Reinstall the new fans. |
| 5. |
Run the car up to operating temperature making sure that the fans come on and go off at the normal range on the temp guage. |
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WATER PUMP
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